a couple thousandths deformation on a pin that is trying to fit in a close tolerance reamed bushing will cause problems. it is also possible to deform the end of the king pin by hammering on it.
hammering the king pin through the spindle? are you kidding me? one burr and you've damaged the king pin and the bushings will be trashed before you've installed the spindles on the car. finding the right combination of spacer/thrust washer/cap is one of the things that takes me the longest time to do. there is no one "fits all" spacer, especially with the different thickness thrust washers (the phenolic or plastic one that goes under the metal cap) combined with any previous wear to the spindle and/or the carrier. too tight and the spindle will bind or be difficult to turn. if it's too thin, the spindle will knock up and down. there is more than one thickness of spacer shim (the shim he said they had machined). regardless of whether or not i use the same manufacturer of king pins, i always check the pin in the reamed bushings to make sure it is a nice smooth fit in both bushings (proper pin alignment before the spindle is ever fitted). i take off small amounts with each pass of the reamer until the pin fits with minimal radial play, yet does not bind when rotated. i do not leave my adjustable reamer "set to one size", make one pass and hope it is correct for the pin i am installing. i NEVER just push the reamer through a reamed bushing. i ream the bushings in a vertical position. i don't hammer bushings into the carriers. I also use a press to disassemble spindles. i use a shop press for bushing installation and king pin installation. there are way too many hammers for my liking. I just think that too many garages use extreme situations in order to sell parts.Įveryone has their own way of doing things, and i do not do spindles as shown in "the video". If the pin is tight, you need to use the reamer. If they are tight and the pin is not, then no problem. When you drive the bushings back in, if they are loose, then yes get new ones. So when you work harden the bushing, it can wear the pin and the carrier in place of the bushing wearing away. The purpose of the bushing is that the bushing is the "sacrifice" piece and not the carrier or the pin. It can cause hard spots in the bushing by work hardening the metal. When you "beat" them out and then "beat" them in again, you really do a lot to change the structure and shape of the bushing. It doesn't matter what its s what its worth to you that matters. Strange, coming from a name like "be-debt-free". I recently rebuilt my king/ling pins and followed my own advice, so I don't have to redo them in a few years. Make sure you get them shimmed correctly and adjusted properly when you put them back together.ĭon't reuse any of the old parts and use the german quality replacement parts.
If they go bad in a few months its not that big of job to change them out. Watch this video several times and follow it exactly. Yes, Link pin bushings push out much easier than the king pins.ĭon't reuse any of the old parts and use the german quality replacement parts. I have the reamer for the kingpin bushings. My kingpin bushings are shot and need to be replaced. Posted: Sun 3:06 pm Post subject: Kingpin bushings only - linkpins look okayĬan I press out the linkpin bushings and re-use them? Quick sort: Show newest posts on top | Show oldest posts on top
Kingpin bushings only - linkpins look okay
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